By R. Schreutelkamp

In a world dominated by instant digital feedback, shooting 35mm film can be a challenge. It is slow, it is expensive, and it is unforgiving.

But it is also incredibly rewarding. The feeling you get when you scan the negatives and realize everything went right is something digital cannot replicate.

For my ongoing project, A Stocked Fridge, I have primarily shot on medium format color film and digital medium format. However, I am now trying out 35mm black and white film with the use of off camera flash because i really like the look of black and white film.

If you are looking to make the switch from digital or buy your first analog camera, this guide covers the essentials of getting started.

1. Why Shoot on Film?
Before buying gear, it helps to understand why we choose this medium.

The Limitation: A roll of 35mm film usually has only 36 exposures. You cannot “spray and pray.” This forces you to be intentional with every shutter click.

The Look: Film handles highlights differently than digital. With film, you don’t really need presets or heavy editing; the chemical process creates a finished look that feels authentic immediately.

The Delayed Gratification: Not seeing the image immediately keeps you in the moment. You aren’t looking down at your screen; you are looking at the street.

2. Choosing Your First 35mm Film Camera
You don’t need a Leica to take great street photos. The best film camera for street photography is one that is reliable and simple.

The SLR (Single Lens Reflex) These are the most common vintage cameras. You look through the lens, so what you see is what you get.

Pros: Deeply reliable, huge selection of lenses, affordable.

Classic Recommendations: Canon AE-1, Pentax K1000, Nikon FM2.

The Rangefinder These are smaller, quieter, and preferred by many street photographers. You look through a window offset from the lens.

Pros: Discreet, lets you see outside the frame, very quiet shutter.

Classic Recommendations: Canon Canonet QL17, Yashica Electro 35, or (if budget allows) Leica M series.

3. The Lens: 35mm vs 50mm
For street photography, prime lenses (fixed focal length) are king.

35mm Lens: The storyteller’s lens. It captures the subject and their environment.

50mm Lens: The “human eye” view. It is great for tighter portraits and isolating subjects from the background, this is my go-to focal length for environmental portraits in Rotterdam.

4. Choosing Your Film Stock
Film comes in different ISOs (sensitivity to light). Since you cannot change ISO mid-roll, choose wisely based on the weather.

For Black & White

Kodak Tri-X 400: High contrast, beautiful grain. The classic street look. So far my favorite film stock.

Ilford HP5 Plus: More forgiving, wider dynamic range. Great for beginners.

Read the Guide: How to Develop Black and White Film at Home

For Color

Kodak Portra 400: Beautiful skin tones and incredible latitude (hard to mess up).

Kodak Gold 200: A cheaper consumer film that gives a warm, vintage feel also my favorite film stock.

Read the Guide: How to Develop Color Film Without a Lab

5. Essential Technique: Zone Focusing
The hardest part of shooting manual film cameras on the street is focusing quickly. The solution is Zone Focusing.

Instead of trying to focus on a moving subject, you pre-focus your lens to a specific distance (e.g., 2 meters) and use a small aperture (like f/8 or f/11).

The Rule: “f/8 and be there.”

At f/8, the depth of field is deep. If your lens is set to 2 meters, everything from 1.5m to 3m will likely be sharp. You just have to wait for the subject to walk into that “zone.”

6. Metering for the Shadows
Digital cameras try to protect the highlights (bright skies). Film is the opposite; it loves light but hates empty shadows.

Pro Tip: When metering your shot, point your camera at the shadows on the street. Expose for the darkest part of the scene, and let the highlights take care of themselves.

Conclusion: Just Go Shoot
The best way to learn 35mm street photography is to burn through a few rolls of film. Accept that your first roll might be blurry or badly exposed. That is part of the learning process.

Once you have finished your roll, the next step is the darkroom.

Ready to process your shots? Read my guide on Developing B&W Film at Home.

Want to see the results of my analog workflow? View the Gallery for some of my recent work.